By far the longest-standing wood type in baseball. Compared to all other wood types used for bats, ash has the most flex and is known as a ring-porous species, explaining its distinctive grain pattern. Ash is harder than birch but softer than maple, beech, and hickory . Due to its higher flex, Ash will have a softer feel than other wood types.
Ash torches beautifully due to its wide grains but is also prone to "flaking" (separation of growth rings) after long-term use.
Along with birch, beech is currently gaining popularity in baseball. It is a very hard, very stiff wood with fine grains and a fine texture. Like birch, it is also believed to possess high flex but it is actually very stiff. Beech is classified as a diffuse-porous species, meaning it has very tight grains and requires an ink dot test before being used in professional games.
Perhaps the most misunderstood wood type used for bats. Contrary to popular belief, birch is stiffer than Ash and Maple but is also the softest of the group, giving it a softer feel and the perception of flex. Birch is a diffuse-porous wood which gives it a very fine and smooth texture. Despite its stiffness, it has a more forgiving feel than maple, hickory, and beech but maintains excellent shock resistance. It is not prone to long-term flaking.
The hardest and the stiffest in the group. Hickory is known as a semi-ring-porous species, possessing qualities of ring-porous and diffuse-porous species. Hickory is also the heaviest wood of the group, largely limiting its use to specific turn models. Used to be widely used in professional baseball until ash took over in the 1930-40s. When used to make lower-volume turn models, hickory can yield very high-performing wood bats.
The most popular choice in MLB today due to its stiffness and hardness. Many players like the solid feel and loud sound at contact that Maple provides. Maple is tied with beech for the the 2nd-hardest of this group. It is also a diffuse-porous wood with a smooth texture and fine grains that resists flaking with repeated use. Its high hardness and stiffness make it the most brittle wood of the group, the main factor leading to the creation of the ink dot test sanctioned by MLB.
Wood hardness is tested by recording the amount of force required to embed a roughly half-inch diameter steel ball halfway to its diameter.
Wood stiffness is also known as MOE or Modulus of Elasticity. It is essentially a ratio of the amount of stress placed on the wood in lbs. to the amount of deformation that the wood experiences (how much it bends) in square inches. The higher the value, the stiffer the wood.
As my company motto states, I can make any turn model in any wood in any size. This includes whole inch lengths, half-inch lengths, quarter-inch lengths, and more. Whatever you need, I can make it.
Despite what many bat companies will tell you, there is no specific species of wood that performs significantly better (in terms of exit velocity) than any others. Many objective studies have been performed on this specific subject and none have revealed a significant outlier. It is true that different wood types perform better in different categories (strength, hardness, stiffness, etc.), but in terms of batted-ball performance, there is not always a clear winner.
The biggest difference between wood types is feel. My advice is to try every wood type you can and to choose your favorite based on what feels best. You may end up being surprised what you end up liking!
The keys to choosing the best bat for you are simple: Comfort and Confidence.
I believe that ash is one of the best overall woods to hit with. It has great feel and is very hot, especially when using higher-density wood. It is true that of all wood types used for bats, it is most prone to "flaking" on the barrel, which means growth rings are beginning to separate. But I believe that this is most commonly caused by repeatedly hitting on the wrong sides of the bat.
When used correctly, ash bats can actually last quite a long time. Correctly hitting with an ash bat means always making contact with the ball on the radial grains of the bat (the straight lines). I strategically place the label on all ash bats (and hickory bats) on the tangential grains so that the hitter can more easily distinguish the two. Simply making sure to always hit with the label up or down will significantly increase the lifespan of an ash bat. The reality is that if you are facing good pitching, you are more likely to break the bat before it begins to flake anyways.
However, I do not recommend using an ash bat strictly as a training or a cage bat. These types of bats are often used to hit a large quantity of balls, which will inevitably cause the bat to flake regardless of what side of the bat is used. For game bats though, I absolutely believe in ash.
The ink dot test is a safety measure required for all bats made from diffuse porous woods (beech, birch, & maple). The test itself is just as it sounds - a dropper places a drop of black ink on the tangential side of the bat when it is still in its raw stage (no stain or finish). The ink then sits for a few minutes, running along the grains and eventually indicating how straight the grain is. This test yields a key metric for each bat: Slope of Grain.
Slope of Grain determines whether a bat can legally be used in a professional game. All MLB bats must have a slope of grain reading no greater than 2.86 degrees. Lower-level leagues (summer collegiate and lower) often do not require this maximum, but it is still a best practice to employ whenever possible. For reference, an imaginary line perfectly parallel to the bat would have a slope of grain of 0 degrees. The test is only required for all diffuse porous woods because they have the tendency to snap off when they break, which can create dangerous flying objects. When these bats have a slope of grain higher than 2.86 degrees, they are especially prone to breaking this way.
The ink is dropped at the 12-inch mark on each bat - the most critical section when determining a bat's durability.
For obvious reasons, hitting with a wood bat is very different than using a metal one. Look, feel, and performance will vary greatly, especially when the player misses the barrel. For those using a wood bat for the first time, it can be very helpful to swing one with high durability and a similar swing weight to a metal bat, which are often fairly balanced instead of end loaded.
For the novice, I recommend any turn model with a thicker handle and a lighter swing weight (such as a 110 or a 141). The thicker handle will make the bat more durable and lighten the swing weight, serving two key functions. I would also recommend birch, maple, or beech for the wood type, which do not necessarily require the player to only hit on specific sides of the bat (unlike ash or hickory).
As the owner and founder, my last name is White and I wanted to incorporate it into the name in a creative way. I have always had a special liking for sharks as well.